GLOSSARY OF TERMS...
FORMALWEAR
Cutaway
or Traditional Styles: For formal daytime weddings, the groom wears the
cutaway / morning coat, which tapers from the front waist button to a
long, wide back tail. The cutaway jacket is either black or grey and
is worn with matching striped trousers.
Stroller coat: This semiformal jacket is cut like a tuxedo. Usually charcoal gray or black and typically
worn in the daytime. This coat is also used as a companion coat
to the cutaway.
Dinner Jacket: A white or ivory shawl lapel jacket with black formal
trousers is an ideal option in Spring and Summer months or year-round
in warmer climates.
Tuxedo: A tuxedo is a single or double breasted jacket with
matching trousers for formal or semi-formal evening events.
White Tie: This is a classic choice for an ultra formal
evening event. The tailcoat jacket is short in front with two long
black tails. A white pique wing collar shirt, vest and tie are also
worn.
Mandarin, a.k.a. Nehru jacket: This jacket features a
stand-up collar with no lapel and is worn with a Mandarin-collared
shirt.
Lapels
Tuxedo jackets come with three basic lapel styles. Some are more
flattering to certain body types. Choosing the lapel that is right for
you is a matter of taste.
Notch:
A triangle indention is cut where the lapel joins the collar. This is
the least formal lapel style.
Peak: A broad V-shaped lapel that points up and out just
below the collar line is called a peak.
Shawl: A shawl is a smooth, rounded lapel with no notch, the
most original and formal lapel style.
Shirts
The main difference between shirt styles is in the collar.
Band
(Mandarin) Collar: A collar that stands up around the neck and
above the buttons is a mandarin collar. This is the most contemporary
style tuxedo shirt.
Wing Collar: The wing collar is similar to the band collar
but the two turned down points in front give the appearance of a
spread collar. This is the most formal choice and the collar style
most often worn with tuxedo jackets.
Spread Collar: The spread collar is similar to a man's
standard button front shirt because it folds over and around the neck
with a wide division between points in front. The wider collar makes
it a good choice with a Euro tie or a standard necktie tied Windsor
style.
Sleeves: As for sleeve cuffs, you have a few options:
standard dress-shirt cuffs held together with cuff links; French
cuffs, which are folded over and closed with cuff links; and cuffs
that close with a button. The choice is yours, but, in general, formal
shirts call for cuff links.
Accessories
Ascot:
A wide necktie that is looped over and held in place beneath the chin
with a tie tack or stick pin is labeled an ascot and is usually
reserved for ultra-formal daytime weddings and worn with a cutaway
coat and striped gray trousers.
Bolo tie: If you are having a Western-themed wedding, this
stringy tie is for you. However, if your bride has other visions in
her head, think again before breaking out your turquoise-studded bolo
tie for the wedding, and go instead for something more classic.
A western bowtie is also a good choice and would be more formal.
Bow Tie: A short tie shaped like a bow that can be worn with
a wing or spread collar. A bow tie adjusts to fit any neck size and is
probably the thing to wear with a classic tux. Bow ties come in
several colors besides basic black; white is usually reserved for
super-formal events and worn with tail coats, while colored bow ties are suitable for any
occasion. You can match the wedding colors, but basic black is far
classier, so think twice before ordering that fuchsia tie.
Cuff Links: These little babies can make or break an
outfit. If you want style, try an inset color other than black. If
simple elegance is your style, stick with black cuff links outlined in
gold or silver. Who knows? Maybe your bride will give you a set as a
gift on your big day.
Cummerbunds: A silk or satin sash as an alternative to a
vest, to be worn at the waist and covering the waistband, the
cummerbund should be worn with the pleats facing upward. It is usually
basic black, but you can choose from colored cummerbunds to match the
bridesmaid dresses or the wedding colors.
Euro
Tie: This is a hybrid between an ascot tie and a regular,
run-of-the-mill necktie. A long knotted square bottom neck tie worn
with a wing or spread collar shirt, the Euro Tie offers a more formal
look that is not as all-out as an ascot.
Necktie: Also called four-in-hands, neckties are perfect for
more casual -- yet still elegant -- wedding looks.
Pocket Square: A small pocket handkerchief tucked into the
left breast pocket worn by groomsmen instead of a boutonniere,
the pocket square is generally made of silk, linen, or another fine
fabric and comes in solid colors or prints to coordinate with the tie,
vest
or cummerbund.
Studs: Studs are jewelry similar to cuff links that
are used to close the front of a tuxedo shirt. They add a very
formal and completed look for any tuxedo shirt.
Suspenders: Also referred to as braces, suspenders can be
worn under a vest or with a cummerbund in a coordinating color or pattern.
Vest or Waistcoat: For an ultra-formal evening wedding, clad yourself in
a white tie and vest/waistcoat, or choose a colored vest/waistcoat instead of a
cummerbund. Vests/Waistcoats let men in the wedding party
lend a bit of personality to their looks. They come in a full back,
half back and open back.
TROUSERS
If
you choose a formal tuxedo, your trousers (or kilt in some cases)
should match your jacket in style and color. Formal trousers will have
a satin strip down the outside of each leg.
If you'll be in a formal
daytime wedding and will wear a stroller coat or cutaway coat, wear
gray or gray pinstriped trousers.
